Making Ikats: Colors of the Silk Road (VIDEO)
Central Asian silks were some of the most prized commodities of the ancient world. Famed for their vibrant colors and bold patterns, this rich legacy of silk production can be traced back over 1,000 years to Uzbekistan, the heart of the old Silk Road.
From Tashkent to the fertile Fergana Valley, dynasties of silk weavers made their mark on ancient oasis cities that dotted the trade routes between East and West, creating hundreds of handmade designs and passing their skills and secrets down to the next generation.
When Uzbekistan became a part of the Soviet Union in the late 19th century, cotton became king, and much of the art of making silk was lost — studios were shut down, and inexpensive and industrially printed textiles became the norm. Since the nation gained independence in 1991, a new generation of weavers and designers has made significant strides in reviving the traditional styles and techniques of the ancient masters.
We caught up with MIR Tour Manager Abdu Samadov, who recently visited one of Uzbekistan’s renowned silk workshops in the Fergana Valley. While inside the studio, he captured this footage of a weaver creating a classic Uzbek silk fabric known as ikat. Take a brief look at the intricate process behind making these brilliant Silk Road textiles.
The creation of a single ikat is an extraordinarily labor-intensive process that can take months to complete; in fact, the Persian word for ikat is abr-band, or “cloud tying,” a reference to the uniquely “cloudy” appearance of the dyed cloth, but also a reverent nod to the lofty job of the weaver who can thread together these unusually vivid and kaleidoscopic patterns.
Threads will be dip-dyed several times in large vats of colors made from natural pigments: deep blue shades come from the indigo plant, reds from pomegranate arils and yellows from onion skins. The choice of colors is left up to the weaver – some patterns may only use two colors, while others might use up to 10 different shades in a single swath of fabric.
Because of the skill and time required to make pure silk atlas, such fabric was once strictly reserved for Central Asia’s wealthy elite and royalty. Clothing was an indication of honor and status in Central Asian society, and atlas ikats were typically given as gifts or as part of a bridal dowry to signify a family’s wealth.
Renowned fashion designer Oscar de la Renta brought ikats into the international fashion forefront with his 2005 and collections, collaborating with master Uzbek weavers from Margilan to create eye-popping contemporary dresses, skirts, coats and shoes.
Since then, other international designers have followed suit, including , and , all of whom featured handmade ikat fabrics in their recent collections. Bold ikat prints have even made their way into the home, appearing on furniture, pillows, carpets and even wallpaper.
Travel To Uzbekistan with MIR
MIR has more than 30 years of travel experience in Central Asia and has an affiliate office in Uzbekistan. We have a roster of contacts that can take you to places that you didn’t even know you wanted to go. Our full service, dedication, commitment to quality, and destination expertise have twice earned us a place on National Geographic Adventure’s list of “Best Adventure Travel Companies on Earth.”
Learn more about Central Asian master weavers and their ancient silk-making traditions on one of MIR’s small group tours to Central Asia, where you can visit the workshop of a renowned silk master and observe how this exquisite fabric is prepared and woven using traditional techniques:
- Once Forbidden Lands of Central Asia & Iran
- Journey Through Central Asia: The Five ‘Stans
- Silk Route Odyssey: Caravan Across Uzbekistan
- Chinese Turkestan & Central Asia
- Backstreets & Bazaars of Uzbekistan
You can also book a custom private journey. MIR specializes in personalized, private journeys, and we’d love to take your ideas and weave them into a trip tailored especially for you. Travel wherever, however, and with whomever you like, relying on our expert assistance. Contact us to find out more about our custom and private travel expertise – each trip handcrafted to your interests, dates and pace.
(Top Photo: A beautiful ikat in progress. Photo Credit: Suresh Mehta)
PUBLISHED: September 26, 2016